Fillet of Sole in Monte Carlo
Elsa restaurant gives columnist the Princess treatment
When I was a little girl, every year at Halloween I would adorn my brunette hair with a tiara my mother wore at her high school prom in the 50s. Later, when my son traded in his Skee Ball tickets to gift me a plastic, multi-colored jeweled tiara for my birthday, that tiara lust returned. Ten years later, I re-married and wore a tiara covered in rows of cubic zirconia.
Six years later, living in Paris and about to celebrate another birthday, I headed to Monaco for the weekend to celebrate with my friend and birthday twin Alexa. It was a lovely train ride along the French Mediterranean coastline to the tiny, independent city-state. It was here at the Hermitage Monte-Carlo, a Belle-Epoch jewel, where I was once again inspired to take on the role of a princess, sans tiara and title. The title, of course, belonged to royalty, but I was the one staying in one of Conde Nast Traveler magazine’s top 10 hotels in France.
As soon as we checked in, my invisible tiara was set in place as I pulled open the shutters to a panoramic view of the Mediterranean and a larger marina dotted with yachts.
Reluctantly, Alexa and I departed our palatial quarters to continue our princess fantasy with dinner at Elsa restaurant at Monte Carlo Beach Hotel. Chef Paolo Sari serves 100-percent organic food that has gained Elsa a Michelin star. Each tasting plate was a masterpiece adorned with edible flowers. To break the illusion seemed disrespectful, but we eventually disrupted the artistic plates to devour the culinary magic.
The next day, Chef Marcel Ravin created a Michelin-starred gastronomic experience during our birthday dinner at Blue Bay Restaurant. All princesses begin dinner with Champagne; we were no exception. The 5-course Escapade menu on the terrace began with bubbly and a plate of mango and passionfruit soaked in vodka and vanilla syrup. Italian Vermentino wines paired well with green papaya spaghetti, served carbonara-style. My palate escalated to elite status with the taste of white truffle slices from Alba, Parmesan cheese with Jubugo ham, sea bass served in a sweet pot and John Dory fish.
I didn’t need a tiara to feel like Monaco’s Princess Charlene, because everywhere I turned I was treated like royalty.
Fillet of Sole
Serves 4
- 1½ pounds sole, filleted
- ½ pound white fish
- 1 cup cream
- ¹⁄³ cup egg whites
- 1 tsp. salt
- 1 tsp. pepper
- 1 tsp. nutmeg
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Remove the skin from the sole.
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Make a thin stuffing by mixing the white fish, cream, egg whites, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
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Spread the stuffing on the fillets. Roll the fillets in aluminum foil and cook for 20 minutes at 140 degrees F.
Sauce with Citrus Fruits
- 2 cups of sole heads
- 2 cloves garlic
- 1 sprig of thyme
- 6 shallots
- 2 carrots
- 2 stalks of celery
- 10 peppercorn seeds
- 6¹⁄³ cups veal stock
Reduction:
- 1²⁄³ cups juiced pomelos (or grapefruit)
- 1²⁄³ cups orange juice
- 1²⁄³ cups carrot juice
- ½ cup lemon juice
- 2 tablespoons sugar
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Brown the sole bones then add herbs.
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Deglaze with reduced juices then add veal stock. Simmer for 30 minutes.
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Strain with a cheesecloth and keep warm.
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Garnish with baked sweet potatoes cooked in orange juice and butter, then puree.
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Use 1 cup of boiled, salted cabbage and garlic cloves for dressing the plate.
In a quest to sate her thirst for the exotic, Charlene Peters has become a passionate world traveler and sensorial scholar. In 2014, she traded her north of Boston home and career at GateHouse Media to live a year in Paris, where she studied food, culture and communication and was the Paris correspondent for Forbes Travel Guide. From Paris, she re-located to Napa Valley and is thrilled to revive her syndicated Taste of Travel column to share new insights into taste.