Flash in the Pan: Leafy wraps-ody

Creating the perfect bite

10/13/2017, 6 a.m.
Food wraps can be found, in one incarnation or another, anywhere in the world that people eat. They include Mexican ...
Part of the reason for the ubiquity of wraps is that they can be made with so many different ingredients. Ari Levaux

If I do have salmon, and I do a lot these days because it’s in season, I bake it slowly with a sweet rub to balance the bitter of the radicchio. Rub it with a mix of two parts brown sugar and one part salt, with a splash of maple syrup if you’ve got it, and then bake at 215 for about a half hour, until some milky juice starts weeping from the tight, glazed orange flesh. Allow to cool, and break it apart into chunks.

Don’t forget the sliced onion.

Capers don’t hurt.

Tomatoes should be cut so they easily give up their juices. Without a cut surface, a tomato won’t absorb the vinaigrette.

Speaking of which, I use my wife’s radicchio dipping dressing: ∏ cup XVOO, ∑ cup soy sauce, 1⁄3 cup vinegar (half white balsamic, half balsamic).

As you dip, you may have to add more oil, as it hangs out on top and coats each leaf as you remove it (bummer, I know). You decide on a dip-by-dip basis how much dressing to use.

You can also marinate the onions and tomatoes in the dressing before adding them to the wrap, and skip the dip altogether.

Put the wrap in your mouth, chew, and enter a flavor warp. Rinse with water or wine, and repeat.

And that, for lack of a better ending, is a wrap.

Ari LeVaux writes a syndicated weekly food column that’s appeared in more than 50 newspapers in 25 states. Ari can be reached at flash@flashinthepan.net.