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How to find your new favorite condiment, ‘white balsamic’

Ari LeVaux, More Content Now | 4/14/2017, 6 a.m.
If you’re like me, you went through a balsamic vinegar phase soon after you “discovered” it. Venturing beyond its traditional ...
Enthusiasts consider white Modena vinegar to be an alternative to traditional red balsamic vinegar for those times when you want that sweet, tangy, balsamic-y complexity without the red color. Ari Levaux Photo

If you’re like me, you went through a balsamic vinegar phase soon after you “discovered” it.

Venturing beyond its traditional habitat in the salad bowl, or drizzled on the occasional strawberry, you poured it on rice, added it to your favorite pickle recipe, perhaps even used it in a stir-fry.

In my case, at any point where the bite of a little acid was needed, I went with balsamic, until I was pretty much sick of it. Balsamic vinegar is not mayonnaise, I realized. It does not make everything taste better.

There are places where the fruity, syrupy sweetness and wine-like complexity is too cloying, heavy and distracting. There are dishes that we do not want to taste like balsamic, and you have to pick your spots. Perhaps your balsamic phase ended with a similar resolution.

More recently I’ve become enamored with an offshoot of balsamic vinegar that’s a lot more versatile, and a lot harder to overdo. For years it went by the name white balsamic vinegar, as it’s made with similar ingredients.

Due to some legal constraints, it’s no longer available as white balsamic, but can be found under the names white Modena vinegar, or white Italian condiment.

Whatever you call it, many enthusiasts consider it simply to be an alternative to traditional red balsamic vinegar for those times when you want that sweet, tangy, balsamic-y complexity without the dark red color.

But that simple distinction ignores the fact that the differences in flavor are significant.

It’s brighter, with more tang, with less-heavy sweetness and a lighter finish. Unlike its darker cousin, white balsamic vinegar won’t hijack the flavor of your meal, and is content playing a supporting role. It’s also tremendously versatile, and can be used in a pinch to substitute for rice vinegar, white wine vinegar, sherry vinegar and even champagne vinegar. It’s near-impossible to confuse with its red cousin, even with your eyes closed.

By any other name ...

The name “white balsamic” is no longer permitted in order to protect the “DOP” status of red, or true, balsamic. DOP stands for Denominazione di Origine Protetta, which translates to Protected Designation of Origin. It can be found affixed to some of Italy’s finest and most celebrated foods, including cheese, extra-virgin olive oil, wine, prosciutto, even pesto.

Not all of these products get this designation by any means — not even the ones from Italy — only those made with ingredients local to where the finished product was produced, and processed with rigid adherence to traditional production practices. If you’re in the market for an Italian product and see that one of the options has the DOP designation, your choice just became much easier.

Wine makers in Modena have been making balsamic vinegar for about 1,000 years, via a process similar to that of making wine. It’s made from white Trebbiano grapes from the Emilia-Romagna region.

The grapes are pressed into “must,” which is a mixture of grape juice and the leftover skins, seeds and stems from the grape clusters. The must is simmered for hours, during which it caramelizes, darkens and thickens. The syrup that results is aged in barrels of oak, cherry, chestnut, mulberry, juniper and other types of wood. Often it’s more than one type of wood per batch.